Veganism faces cultural backlash as plant-based movement struggles with identity crisis

As January’s Veganuary campaign kicks off with less fanfare than previous years, the plant-based movement finds itself at a crossroads. Despite early promises that veganism would reshape the food industry, recent trends suggest a significant cultural shift away from meat-free dining.

The numbers paint a sobering picture: vegan restaurants are closing at alarming rates on both sides of the Atlantic, including the high-profile reversal by Michelin three-starred Eleven Madison Park, which recently reintroduced animal products to its menu. Sales of meat alternatives have declined, and the percentage of people identifying as vegan remains stubbornly low at around 1% of the population. Even longtime vegan advocates are questioning where the movement went wrong.

This retreat from plant-based eating comes amid broader cultural tensions around food choices. Political figures like RFK Jr. are championing carnivorous diets, while protein-focused eating trends gain momentum on social media. The shift represents more than just changing consumer preferences—it reflects deeper anxieties about environmental action and personal agency in addressing climate change.

For committed vegans like writer Emma Beddington, the diet serves as more than an ethical choice; it’s a mental health strategy that provides a sense of control and purpose in the face of overwhelming environmental challenges. As the movement grapples with its future, questions remain about whether veganism can adapt to maintain relevance in an increasingly polarized food landscape, or whether it will remain a niche lifestyle choice rather than the mainstream environmental solution many once envisioned.