Madagascar’s urban lemur trade: thousands of endangered primates sold annually as restaurant delicacies

A disturbing new trade is threatening Madagascar’s already critically endangered lemur populations. Research published in Conservation Letters reveals that nearly 13,000 lemurs are sold annually in the island nation’s cities, where these rare primates have become an urban delicacy served in restaurants and sold through underground networks.

The comprehensive study, conducted by interviewing 2,600 people across 17 cities, uncovered a sophisticated shadow economy built around lemur consumption. While one in twelve restaurants was found selling wild meat, and roughly one in 200 specifically served lemur dishes, these visible sales represent just the tip of the iceberg. The vast majority of lemur trading—over 94%—occurs through direct, discreet transactions between hunters and trusted clients, making the practice largely invisible to authorities.

This illegal trade operates with alarming efficiency. Hunters working in areas surrounding cities function as complete supply chains, tracking and killing lemurs in nearby forests before processing and delivering the meat directly to urban customers. Larger species like the endangered black-and-white ruffed lemur are particularly targeted due to their size. The researchers note that their 13,000 annual estimate likely represents a conservative figure, as hunters typically underreport their activities even in confidential interviews.

The findings paint a grim picture for lemurs, which are already considered the world’s most threatened mammal group. With habitat destruction and now urban consumption pressures mounting, Madagascar’s unique primates face an increasingly precarious future. The study’s authors emphasize that immediate action is needed to address this lucrative but destructive trade before it further decimates lemur populations.